Recently, a patient came in and asked me about Biossance Squalane + Copper Peptide Rapid Plumping Serum. They had heard rave reviews online and were curious about whether this serum could actually deliver the results promised. It’s common for patients to bring in trendy products, especially ones with ingredients like copper peptides that claim to do everything from plumping the skin to slowing down the aging process. So, I decided to take a closer look and see if this serum really lives up to the hype. Let’s dive in.

Overview

According to Biossance, this serum is designed to provide deep hydration, smooth fine lines, and plump the skin for a more youthful appearance. The manufacturer claims that it uses copper peptides, along with hydrating ingredients like squalane and hyaluronic acid, to improve skin elasticity and leave it looking healthy and radiant. With promises like these, it’s no surprise that people are intrigued.

But does it really live up to the hype? Let’s find out!

Click the video to the right for a whirlwind overview of peptides, or read on for more info!

Product Ingredients

The serum has quite a few ingredients that stand out, but let's break them down into groups and see what each one is doing for your skin.

Anti-inflammatory: Ectoin, Panthenol, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Root Extract

These ingredients are included for their anti-inflammatory and soothing properties. Ectoin is a lesser-known but effective anti-inflammatory, panthenol (also known as vitamin B5) is a good hydrator, and the extracts like turmeric and green tea are included to calm and protect the skin.

Grade: C

While these ingredients do offer some anti-inflammatory benefits, there are better, cheaper alternatives out there that do the same thing. Plus, this serum contains a laundry list of extracts, which increases the risk of irritation for sensitive skin types.

Hydration (Humectants, Emollients, and Occlusives): Glycerin, Squalane, Hyaluronic Acid

Glycerin and hyaluronic acid are well-known humectants that attract moisture to the skin. Squalane is a natural emollient that helps lock in hydration and leaves the skin feeling smooth and soft. Together, these ingredients provide a nice balance of hydration and moisture.

Grade: B+

These are solid ingredients for hydration, but hyaluronic acid can sometimes irritate sensitive skin. Squalane is a standout ingredient and a personal favorite, as it mimics the skin’s natural oils and works well with all skin types.

Usage

The serum can be applied twice a day—morning and night—after cleansing and toning. Apply 1-2 pumps to your face and neck, gently pressing it into the skin. It works well under makeup and should be followed up with a moisturizer and sunscreen during the day.

If you have sensitive skin or are new to peptides, it’s best to start with once-a-day use to minimize the risk of irritation.

Side Effects

For the most part, this serum is safe for all skin types, but people with sensitive skin should be cautious. The many plant extracts can be irritating, especially if your skin is reactive to fragrances or botanicals. Hyaluronic acid, while hydrating, can also cause irritation or breakouts in some people, especially if used in very dry environments.

Price and Value

At around $68 for 50mL, this serum is on the expensive side. Considering the ingredients, especially the copper peptides and multiple plant extracts, I’m not convinced it’s worth the price. There are plenty of other products that offer better hydration or peptides at a lower cost. You’re definitely paying for the brand here, and unless you're specifically looking for copper peptides, I wouldn’t say it offers the best value for money.

Dermatologist’s Opinion

Overall Grade: B

Pros:

Contains hydrating ingredients like squalane and hyaluronic acid

Lightweight and fast-absorbing texture

Suitable for most skin types

Cons:

Overpriced for what it offers

Contains multiple extracts that could irritate sensitive skin

Copper peptides are overrated and not well-supported by research

Is it a good value? No. There are better peptide serums and hydrating products out there for a lower price. While this serum does have some good qualities, the high price tag isn’t justified, especially when you consider the lack of independent research behind some of the key ingredients. If you’re looking for hydration, I love squalane, but I wouldn’t recommend this serum just for its peptides.

Is this product safe for sensitive skin?

It’s generally safe, but be cautious if you have sensitive skin due to the high number of plant extracts, which can sometimes cause irritation.

Can I use this serum with other active ingredients like retinol?

Yes, copper peptides usually play well with other active ingredients like retinol. However, you may want to avoid using it with strong acids, like AHAs or BHAs, as they can reduce the effectiveness of the peptides.

How long does it take to see results?

You may notice immediate hydration and plumping effects thanks to the humectants, but for anti-aging benefits like improved skin elasticity, it usually takes 4 to 6 weeks.

Can I use it twice a day?

Yes, this serum can be used both morning and night. Just make sure to follow up with sunscreen during the day to protect your skin.

Is it cruelty-free?

Yes, Biossance products are cruelty-free and free from parabens, sulfates, and synthetic fragrances.

Is the price worth it?

At $68, it's pretty expensive for what it offers. There are better, more affordable products out there if you're mainly looking for hydration or peptides.