Azelaic acid is a skincare ingredient that has been gaining popularity for treating common skin problems like acne, rosacea, and dark spots. One of the most popular products on the market is The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%. As a dermatologist, I often get asked about this product and whether it's worth trying. In this post, I’ll explain what azelaic acid is, how it works, and why The Ordinary's version might be a good option for you. Watch the video summary below, or read on for more!

What is Azelaic Acid?

Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring compound found in grains like barley, wheat, and rye. While these grains are mostly used in food, azelaic acid has been used in skincare for years. It has properties that make it a versatile and helpful ingredient for treating a variety of skin issues.

Azelaic acid is known for three main benefits:

• Anti-inflammatory: It calms redness and irritation.

• Antibacterial: It kills the bacteria that can cause acne.

• Keratolytic: It helps your skin shed dead skin cells, making it smoother.

Because of these properties, azelaic acid is often recommended for acne, rosacea, and hyperpigmentation (dark spots). It’s a key ingredient for people who want to improve their skin texture, clear up pimples, and reduce dark marks.

How Does Azelaic Acid Work?

Azelaic acid works in several ways to help improve skin. For those with acne, it slows down the growth of the bacteria that cause breakouts. It also helps to reduce inflammation, which is why it’s used to treat rosacea—a condition where the skin becomes red and irritated. Azelaic acid helps the skin shed dead cells, preventing pores from getting clogged. This leads to fewer breakouts and smoother skin.

Another major benefit of azelaic acid is its ability to fade dark spots. It works by blocking an enzyme called tyrosinase, which is involved in melanin production. Melanin is what gives skin its color, so when the production is slowed, dark spots fade over time.

Different Strengths of Azelaic Acid

Azelaic acid comes in different strengths, and choosing the right one depends on your skin and what you're treating. Here’s a quick look at common percentages:

5%: This is a low concentration, good for sensitive skin or those just starting with azelaic acid. It’s gentle and helps with mild acne or redness, but results may take longer.

10%: The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% falls into this range. It’s effective for treating acne, rosacea, and dark spots without being too harsh for most people.

15-20%: These higher concentrations are usually prescription-strength. They work faster and are better for more severe acne or rosacea but can be more irritating. It’s best to use these under a dermatologist's care.

You can start with a 10% strength if you're new to azelaic acid. If you need something stronger, consult a dermatologist before trying higher concentrations.

Why I Like The Ordinary Azelaic Acid

The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% has gained a lot of attention in recent years, and for good reason! It’s an affordable product ($12!) that has a high concentration of azelaic acid. But why choose The Ordinary's version over others?

Here are a few reasons:

Simple formula: The product contains 10% azelaic acid, which is a high concentration that can still be used safely. It doesn’t have many added ingredients, which makes it suitable for sensitive skin.

Affordable: The Ordinary is known for offering effective products at low prices, and their azelaic acid is no exception. This is a great option for people looking for an affordable solution to acne, rosacea, or hyperpigmentation.

Widely available: You can find The Ordinary Azelaic Acid at many online stores, making it easy to purchase and use in your daily routine.

Why I Don’t Like The Ordinary Azelaic Acid

Let’s keep it 100. While The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% has many benefits, it’s also important to consider the drawbacks. Every product has its pros and cons, and The Ordinary's version of azelaic acid is no different.

Here are some reasons why it might not be the best fit for everyone:

Gritty Texture: The most common complaint about The Ordinary Azelaic Acid is the texture. Since it's a suspension, the azelaic acid isn't fully dissolved, leaving a gritty feel on the skin. Some don’t mind it, but others find it uncomfortable, especially under makeup.

Pilling: The suspension can also cause pilling, which is when the product forms little flakes or balls on the skin. This usually happens if you use too much or layer it with certain other products like moisturizers or sunscreens. This is a common complaint with azelaic acid in general, but it seems to be a bit worse with The Ordinary’s product in particular.

Not Strong Enough for Severe Acne: Azelaic acid works well for mild to moderate acne, but it’s not going to do anything for cystic acne. In those cases, stronger treatments like retinoids or benzoyl peroxide might work better.

Can Be Drying: Some people report that The Ordinary Azelaic Acid can dry out their skin, especially when used too often or paired with retinol. If you have dry or sensitive skin, start slow and use a moisturizer.

Results Take Time: This is not unique to The Ordinary, but azelaic acid isn’t a quick fix. It can take a few weeks to see clearer skin, and even longer for dark spots to fade.

How to Use Azelaic Acid

Using azelaic acid is fairly simple, but there are a few things to keep in mind to get the best results:

Start slowly: If you’ve never used azelaic acid before, it’s best to start slowly to avoid irritation. You can begin by using it every other day, then gradually increase to daily use as your skin gets used to it.

Apply after cleansing: After washing your face and applying water-based serums, apply a small amount of azelaic acid. You can follow with your usual moisturizer and sunscreen.

Always use sunscreen: Azelaic acid can make your skin more sensitive to the sun, so it’s important to use sunscreen every day, even when it’s cloudy! ⛅️

Don’t overdo it: You don’t need to apply a lot of the product. A pea-sized amount is usually enough for your entire face. Too much can lead to irritation. 🥵

What to Expect

Like most skincare treatments, azelaic acid doesn’t provide instant results. It can take several weeks before you start seeing a difference in your skin. Patience is key when it comes to any skincare routine.

Here’s what you can expect:

• After a few weeks: Your skin may start to look clearer, with fewer breakouts.

• After a few months: You may see improvement in dark spots and smoother skin texture.

Some people may experience mild irritation when they first start using azelaic acid. This usually goes away as your skin adjusts. However, if you experience severe redness or itching, it’s best to stop using the product and talk to a dermatologist.

My Final Thoughts

As a dermatologist, I LOVE azelaic acid! It’s a fantastic ingredient that can work wonders for acne, rosacea, and hyperpigmentation. The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% is an affordable option ($12!) for anyone looking to add azelaic acid to their skincare routine. It takes time to see results, but with consistent use, you can expect clearer, smoother skin.

If you’re dealing with acne, redness, or dark spots, this product could be worth a try. It’s particularly helpful for those with mild to moderate skin concerns and sensitive skin. Remember to start slowly and always use sunscreen during the day to protect your skin while using azelaic acid.

However, this product might not be for everyone. If you have severe acne, deep acne scars, or very dry, easily irritated skin, you may need stronger treatments like retinoids or a prescription azelaic acid (such as Finacea, which is 15% azelaic acid that I often prescribe for my rosacea patients). Also, keep in mind that the gritty texture and potential for pilling can be a downside for some users.

Overall, The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% is a great option for many, but it’s essential to understand your unique skin needs. In medicine, we often say, “Start low and go slow” — and that applies here too. If you’re unsure or have more complex skin concerns, consulting a dermatologist is always the best way to find the right treatment for you.

That’s all for today! Thanks for reading! 😊

Can I use azelaic acid with other active ingredients?
Yes, azelaic acid is generally safe to use with other active ingredients like niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, and vitamin C. However, if you’re using stronger ingredients like retinol or exfoliating acids (like salicylic acid or glycolic acid), it’s best to introduce them slowly to avoid irritating your skin.

How long does it take to see results?
It varies, but most people see noticeable improvement after about 4 to 12 weeks of regular use. For dark spots, it may take longer.

Can I use azelaic acid if I have sensitive skin?
Yes, azelaic acid is often well-tolerated by sensitive skin, especially since The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% has a simple formula without too many additional ingredients. However, it’s always a good idea to patch-test any new product before applying it to your face.

Is The Ordinary Azelaic Acid good for treating acne scars?
Azelaic acid can help fade dark spots left by acne, but it’s not going to do anything for scars. Scars generally require procedures like chemical peels, laser therapy, or microneedling.