Pigment 101: For Dark Spots

Melanocyte Basics

Our skin color comes from cells called melanocytes, which produce melanin to give us our skin color. Melanocytes are located at the very bottom of the epidermis, the outer layer of your skin. This layer is extremely thin, only about 0.05 mm deep. Melanocytes are very sensitive to various types of trauma, such as heat, cold, and inflammation. Because these cells are so delicate, they can get damaged quite easily. When melanocytes are harmed, they might cause hyperpigmentation, which means dark spots or patches can appear on your skin.

Melanocytes

Melanin Basics

Melanin, the pigment responsible for the color of your skin, is produced by melanocytes located at the bottom of the epidermis. Once melanin is made, it travels up through the layers of the skin. This journey takes about 28 days, as melanin gradually moves from the bottom of the epidermis to the top. During this time, the melanin helps protect the skin from UV damage and contributes to the overall color and tone of the skin. By the time it reaches the surface, it has played a crucial role in shielding your skin from harmful sun exposure.

A Cute Fact About Melanin 🥹

Want to know something cute? Every skin cell has a nucleus, which stores our DNA. It’s very important to protect our fragile DNA! That’s why our melanin covers each little nucleus of our skin cells. It's called a melanin cap! Every skin cell has a little hat on. 🥲 This is a picture of our epidermis. The brown is a special stain for melanin.

Steps to Make Pigment

The process of making pigment in your skin starts with melanocytes, which are located at the bottom of the epidermis. There are 4 major steps to make pigment.

  1. Getting Nutrients: Melanocytes, like all cells, need oxygen and nutrients to function.

  2. Making Melanin: Melanocytes create melanin, the pigment that gives skin its color. This requires an enzyme called tyrosinase.

  3. Moving Melanin: After melanin is made, it gets moved from the melanocytes to nearby skin cells. This step helps spread melanin throughout the layers of the skin.

  4. Reaching the Surface: It takes about 28 days for melanin to travel from the bottom of the epidermis to the surface of the skin. Once it reaches the top, melanin helps protect your skin from UV damage and adds to your skin color.

We can intervene in each step of these steps (or multiple steps at once) to have the best chance to reduce hyperpigmentation.

Steps to Make Pigment
Stop Steps to Make Pigment

Notice any repeat ingredients in the steps above? That's right, it's our old friend retinol! Retinol combats melasma in multiple steps and is a great addition to any hyperpigmentation-fighting routine.

To reduce hyperpigmentation, it's best to use different ingredients that each work on different steps. For example, let’s say you currently use Vitamin C to reduce pigment (stops step #2). If you are interested in adding another product, it’s better to add Niacinamide (stops step #3) than Azelaic Acid (also stops step #2, the same as Vitamin C). By using these different ingredients together, you tackle several steps in the pigmentation process, which can lead to a more even skin tone and fewer dark spots.

Pigment FAQs

Can I Use a Laser for Hyperpigmentation?

Laser therapy targets hyperpigmentation by breaking up excess melanin in the skin. Different types of lasers, such as Q-switched or fractional lasers, can be used depending on the severity and type of pigmentation. Results can be significant, but multiple sessions may be required, and there’s a risk of side effects like irritation or temporary darkening.

Can I Do Chemical Peels for Hyperpigmentation?

Chemical peels use acids like glycolic, lactic, or salicylic acid to exfoliate the skin and promote cell turnover, which helps fade hyperpigmentation. Superficial peels are mild and can be used regularly, while deeper peels provide more dramatic results but require more recovery time. They're effective but should be done under professional supervision to avoid complications.

Can I Do Facials for Hyperpigmentation?

Facials for hyperpigmentation typically include exfoliation, brightening masks, and treatments with ingredients like Vitamin C or enzymes that help lighten dark spots. While they can improve the skin's appearance, facials are generally less intense than other treatments like peels or lasers, making them a good maintenance option rather than a primary treatment.

What’s the Best Hyperpigmentation Soap?

Soaps designed for hyperpigmentation often contain ingredients like kojic acid, licorice extract, or alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) that help lighten dark spots over time. These soaps can be used daily as part of your skincare routine, but results are usually gradual and may be less effective than stronger treatments.

Can I Do Microneedling for Hyperpigmentation?

Microneedling involves using tiny needles to create micro-injuries in the skin, stimulating collagen production and promoting the fading of hyperpigmentation. It can be very effective, especially for post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) or melasma. Multiple sessions are usually needed, and it’s often combined with topical treatments for best results.

What’s the Best Body Wash for Hyperpigmentation?

Body washes targeting hyperpigmentation often contain ingredients like glycolic acid, salicylic acid, or niacinamide, which help exfoliate and brighten the skin. These can be helpful for treating dark spots on the body, such as on the back or chest. Consistent use is key, and pairing the body wash with sunscreen is essential to prevent further pigmentation.

Based on the keywords from your list, here’s an FAQ focusing on dark spots and how to manage them naturally:

How Can I Remove Age Spots Naturally?

Many over-the-counter remedies for dark spots (ie lemon juice or apple cider vinegar) irritate the skin. The best way to lighten and prevent dark spots is to use sunscreen SPF 50 or above daily.

Does Arazlo Lotion Get Rid of Dark Spots?

Arazlo (tazarotene) is a topical retinoid that may help reduce dark spots by increasing cell turnover. It’s often used for acne but can also help with hyperpigmentation. It’s best to use it as directed by a healthcare provider.

How Can I Get Rid of Sunspots?

Sunspots, also known as solar lentigines, can be treated with natural remedies like applying green tea extract, vitamin C, or licorice extract. These ingredients have brightening properties that may help fade sunspots. However, for more stubborn spots, you might need to see a dermatologist.

Does Niacinamide Help with Dark Spots?

Yes, niacinamide is effective in treating dark spots. It works by inhibiting the transfer of pigment to the skin cells, helping to lighten dark spots and improve overall skin tone.

Does Tretinoin Help with Dark Spots?

Tretinoin, a form of vitamin A, is effective in treating dark spots by promoting faster skin cell turnover. This helps to fade hyperpigmentation over time. It’s typically more potent than over-the-counter treatments, so it’s best used under the guidance of a dermatologist.

Why Is My Skin Getting Darker Without Sun?

Skin can get darker without sun exposure due to several factors like hormonal changes, inflammation, or certain medications. If you notice unexplained darkening, it’s a good idea to consult with a dermatologist.

Will Hyperpigmentation Fade?

Yes, hyperpigmentation can fade over time, especially with the use of brightening agents like vitamin C, niacinamide, or retinoids. Consistency in treatment and protection from further sun exposure is essential for the best results.

How to Use Vitamin C for Dark Spots?

To use vitamin C for dark spots, apply a vitamin C serum to clean, dry skin once or twice daily. Follow it with a moisturizer and sunscreen in the morning. Vitamin C helps to brighten the skin and reduce the appearance of dark spots by neutralizing free radicals.