Collagen 101: For Wrinkles + Scars
What is Collagen?
Collagen is a protein that plays a crucial role in our bodies. It’s like the glue that holds everything together. You can find collagen in your skin, bones, muscles, tendons, and ligaments. Think of it as the scaffolding that gives structure and strength to your skin and other tissues. Without collagen, our bodies wouldn’t have the firmness and elasticity that keep us looking and feeling young.
Type 1 Collagen
Type 1 Collagen is the strongest. It’s found in your skin + bones! How strong? Think leather!
Type 2 Collagen
Type 2 Collagen is cartilage. Think ears, nose, and the cushion in your joints. In med school, we remember this by Cart-2-lage!
Type 3 Collagen
Type 3 Collagen is in your muscles, organs, and blood vessels.
So, if you take collagen supplements, what type of collagen is it?
Most collagen supplements are made from Type I and Type III collagen, which are extracted from sources like bovine (cow) or marine (fish). These types are chosen because they are the most beneficial for your skin, hair, nails, and bones. Type II collagen is usually found in supplements designed to support joint health because it's more specific to cartilage.
Why is Collagen Important for Skin?
Collagen is particularly important for your skin because it helps keep it firm, smooth, and youthful-looking. When we’re young, our bodies produce plenty of collagen, which is why children and teenagers have such plump, smooth skin. But as we age, our bodies start producing less collagen. This decrease typically begins in our mid-20s and continues as we get older.
As collagen levels drop, you may notice changes in your skin. It can become thinner, less firm, and start to sag. Fine lines and wrinkles can begin to appear, and the overall texture of the skin may not feel as smooth as it once did. This is a natural part of aging, but there are ways to help maintain collagen levels and keep your skin looking its best.
Healthy skin with abundant collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid—showing the smooth, firm texture that maintains skin’s resilience and elasticity.
Aged skin with reduced collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid—showing the loss of firmness and elasticity that can lead to fine lines and wrinkles.
What Causes Collagen to Break Down?
Aging: As mentioned, aging is the primary reason for collagen loss. This natural process is something we all go through, and it’s unavoidable.
Sun Exposure: UV rays from the sun can damage the collagen fibers in your skin. This is why it’s so important to wear sunscreen every day, even when it’s cloudy.
Smoking: Smoking introduces harmful chemicals into your body that can damage collagen and reduce your skin’s elasticity.
Poor Diet: Not getting enough nutrients, especially protein and vitamins, can weaken your body’s ability to produce collagen.
Stress: High levels of stress can increase the production of free radicals, which can damage collagen.
Lifestyle Changes to Boost Collagen
The good news is that there are ways to boost collagen production and protect the collagen you already have. Here are some tips:
Eat a Collagen-Boosting Diet: Your diet plays a big role in collagen production. Eating foods rich in vitamin C, such as citrus fruits, strawberries, and bell peppers, can help your body produce more collagen. Bone broth, which is rich in collagen, can also be beneficial.
Stay Hydrated: Drinking enough water is essential for healthy skin. Hydrated skin is more elastic and less prone to wrinkles.
Take Collagen Supplements: There are various collagen supplements available, including powders and pills. Some studies suggest that taking these supplements can improve skin elasticity, hydration, and overall appearance.
Avoid Excessive Sun Exposure: Protect your skin from UV damage by wearing sunscreen with at least SPF 30 every day, even during winter or when it’s cloudy.
Quit Smoking: If you smoke, quitting is one of the best things you can do for your skin. Your collagen levels will thank you!
Skincare to Boost Collagen
The good news is that there are ways to boost collagen production and protect the collagen you already have. Here is a summary and more info about each ingredient:
Peptides
MOA: Peptides are short chains of amino acids that can signal skin cells to produce more collagen. Some peptides mimic the skin’s natural communication molecules, effectively 'tricking' the skin into thinking it needs to repair itself and produce more collagen.
Evidence: There is some evidence supporting the use of certain peptides in stimulating collagen production. Studies suggest that peptides can improve skin elasticity and reduce the appearance of wrinkles, though the effects are usually subtle and take time to become noticeable.
Do They Work?: Peptides can have a positive impact on collagen production, but the results are generally modest compared to more invasive treatments like retinoids or professional procedures.
Matrixyl
MOA: Matrixyl is a specific peptide that works by mimicking the skin’s natural extracellular matrix proteins, stimulating the production of collagen and other important proteins like elastin.
Evidence: Matrixyl has been studied for its anti-aging effects, and some research shows it can reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines by increasing collagen production. A study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science reported a 33% reduction in wrinkle density after using Matrixyl.
Do They Work?: Matrixyl has been shown to be effective in promoting collagen production and reducing the signs of aging. However, like other peptides, the results are gradual and may not be as dramatic as more aggressive treatments.
Delivery driver throws box near house.
With lactic/glycolic acid/copper peptide, delivers into fibroblast
Vitamin C
MOA: Vitamin C is a potent antioxidant that plays a critical role in collagen synthesis. It helps stabilize the collagen molecule and aids in the production of new collagen fibers by supporting the enzymes involved in collagen formation.
Evidence: Numerous studies have demonstrated that topical vitamin C can increase collagen production, reduce pigmentation, and protect against UV-induced photodamage. Its effectiveness depends on the formulation and concentration, with L-ascorbic acid being the most potent form.
Do They Work?: Vitamin C is well-supported by research as an effective ingredient for boosting collagen production and improving skin texture and brightness.
Copper Peptides
MOA: Copper peptides combine peptides with copper ions, which are thought to enhance collagen production and improve wound healing. Copper ions play a role in the enzymes responsible for collagen synthesis.
Evidence: Some studies suggest that copper peptides can promote collagen production and improve skin elasticity, but the evidence is not as strong or consistent as with other ingredients like retinoids.
Do They Work?: Copper peptides may offer some benefits for collagen production, but more research is needed to fully confirm their effectiveness.
Retinoids (e.g., Retinol, Tretinoin)
Use Retinoids: Retinoids, like tretinoin, are known to stimulate collagen production in the skin. They work by speeding up cell turnover and encouraging new, healthy skin cells to replace old ones. Over time, this can help reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines. Below, you’ll see a before-and-after image of someone who used tretinoin for wrinkles, demonstrating how it can improve skin texture and smooth out lines.
MOA: Retinoids work by binding to retinoic acid receptors in the skin, which increases cell turnover and stimulates the production of new collagen. They also inhibit collagen breakdown by reducing matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), enzymes that degrade collagen.
Evidence: Retinoids are among the most studied and proven ingredients for anti-aging. Numerous clinical trials show that retinoids can significantly increase collagen production, improve skin texture, and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Do They Work?: Retinoids are highly effective in promoting collagen production and are considered the gold standard in anti-aging skincare.
What about creams that contain collagen? While they can provide hydration and improve skin texture on the surface, the collagen molecules in these creams are too large to penetrate into the skin to stimulate collagen production. The famous “500 Dalton Rule” states that molecules must be <500 Daltons (a molecule weight) to penetrate the skin. Collagen molecules are ~400,000 Daltons. You can see why these can never cross into the skin!
Tretinoin Before and After
Let’s see tretinoin in action! Tretinoin is a type of retinoid that is often prescribed to treat acne and reduce the signs of aging. It’s one of the few skincare ingredients that has been scientifically proven to boost collagen production. When applied to the skin, tretinoin works by encouraging the production of new skin cells and increasing the turnover of old cells. This process helps to thicken the dermis (the inner layer of skin) and reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Below, the before-and-after image below shows the effects of using tretinoin on wrinkles. Notice how the fine lines and wrinkles have smoothed out, and the overall texture of the skin has improved. This is a powerful example of how boosting collagen with tretinoin can rejuvenate your skin.
Tretinoin Images: Park SE, Kim SS, Kim CW, Her Y. A Prospective Split-Face Comparative Study of Periorbital Wrinkle Treatments: Fractional Erbium-Doped Yttrium Aluminum Garnet Laser, Intense Pulsed Light, and Topical 0.1% Tretinoin Cream. Ann Dermatol. 2016 Oct;28(5):650-652. doi: 10.5021/ad.2016.28.5.650. Epub 2016 Sep 30. PMID: 27746652; PMCID: PMC5064202.
Procedures to Boost Collagen
For skincare products, boosting collagen is challenging because it’s hard for topical products to penetrate deep enough into the dermis, where collagen production happens. This is why professional procedures like microneedling, laser treatments, and ultrasound therapy tend to do a better job—they can reach those deeper layers of skin more effectively. However, even with these procedures, you need to be patient. Results typically take 4-6 months to become visible because the process relies on your body’s ability to produce new collagen. The effectiveness of these treatments can also vary depending on how well your collagen-producing cells (fibroblasts) respond, which can differ from person to person.
As we age, our cells naturally slow down, so collagen production decreases over time. Because of this, you may respond better to treatments (laser, microneedling, peels, etc) at age 40 than you would at age 70. The effectiveness of these treatments varies depending on how well your collagen-producing cells respond, and this responsiveness tends to decline with age.
Chemical Peels
Process: Application of acid solutions build collagen
Examples: Glycolic, TCA, PCA, Vi peels
Lasers
Process: Uses light to build collagen
Examples: Fraxel, CO2, Clear and Brilliant
Microneedling
Process: Uses fine needles to build collagen
Examples: Can addition additional Platelet Rich Plasma (PRP)
RF Microneedling
Process: Uses microneedling with radiofrequency energy to heat the skin and build collagen
Examples: Morpheus8, Vivace, Genius, Infini
Collagen FAQs
Does Collagen Cream Work?
Collagen creams can help improve the appearance of your skin by providing hydration and temporarily plumping the skin, which may reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. However, collagen molecules are too large to penetrate the skin deeply, so these creams won't directly increase your skin's collagen levels. Instead, they work mainly by moisturizing the skin and improving its surface texture. For more significant collagen production, look for products with ingredients like retinoids, vitamin C, or peptides, or consider professional treatments like microneedling or laser therapy.
What Are Collagen Injections?
Collagen injections are no longer popular. Collagen, often derived from cow sources, was used as a filler to plump the skin. While effective, it’s largely been replaced by newer fillers like hyaluronic acid.
Does Collagen Cause Weight Gain?
No, collagen does not cause weight gain. It is a protein that supports skin, hair, nails, and joints. Collagen supplements are low in calories, so they don’t typically contribute to weight gain.
Does Collagen Help with Acne?
Collagen can help with acne by improving skin elasticity and healing. It may reduce the appearance of acne scars over time by promoting skin regeneration.
How Long Does It Take for Collagen to Work?
Collagen typically takes about 4-8 weeks to show visible results. You might notice improvements in skin hydration, elasticity, and joint pain within this time.
Is Collagen a Complete Protein?
No, collagen is not a complete protein. It is rich in certain amino acids like glycine, proline, and hydroxyproline, but it lacks some essential amino acids that make a protein complete.
Can Collagen Help with Hair Loss?
Collagen may help with hair loss by providing the amino acids that are necessary for keratin production, which is the protein that makes up your hair. It may also help improve scalp health.
Does Collagen Help Thinning Hair?
Collagen may help with thinning hair by supporting the hair follicles and providing the necessary amino acids for hair growth. It might also improve scalp health, which can help reduce hair thinning.
Does Collagen Make You Break Out?
Some people may experience breakouts when they start taking collagen, but it’s not common. If this happens, it might be due to an allergic reaction or the body adjusting to the supplement.
Do Collagen Gummies Work?
Yes, collagen gummies can work, but they might contain less collagen per serving compared to powders or capsules. If you prefer gummies, make sure to check the collagen content to meet your daily needs.