Your Essential Guide to Collagen Peptides

We always hear about peptides in skincare, but what do they actually do? How do you know which peptides are right for your skin type and concerns? Let’s break down everything you need to know about peptides and how they can transform your skin! Today we’ll cover:

  • Collagen Building Peptides

  • Copper Peptides

  • “Botox in a Bottle” Peptides

  • Collagen Preserving Peptides

Which ones actually work? Watch the video on the right, or skim the tl;dr below!

What Are Peptides?

Peptides are short chains of amino acids, which are the building blocks of proteins. In your body, proteins play a vital role in almost everything—skin structure, muscle function, and even your immune system. In skincare, peptides are particularly important because they help improve the health and appearance of your skin.

Think of peptides as messengers. They tell your skin cells what to do, like making more collagen, repairing damage, or reducing inflammation. Because of this, peptides are a key ingredient in many anti-aging and skin-repair products.

Amino Acids Peptides Proteins

What Do Peptides Do?

When people talk about "peptides," it can mean a lot of different things, making it a very broad and unclear term. Peptides are short chains of amino acids, but there are many different types, and they can do different things for your skin. Because of this, it's hard to know exactly what a product with peptides will do without more details. On the other hand, when someone mentions retinol, we know exactly what that is—a type of Vitamin A that helps with wrinkles and skin texture. So, while "retinol" is specific, "peptides" is more like an umbrella term that needs more explanation.

The term "retinol" is specific. It means THIS structure. Nothing else.

"Peptides" is an umbrella term that needs more explanation. 

Which Peptide is for Me?

So how do we know if a peptide is really good for our skin? It can be tricky because many studies on peptides are sponsored by the companies that make them, which can sometimes make the results seem better than they are. Plus, a lot of the research is done in a lab (in vitro) or on animals, not on actual people. This means we don't always know how well these peptides will work on human skin. Sometimes, the results we hear about are also self-reported, meaning people just say how their skin feels, which isn't always super reliable. So, it's important to be cautious when hearing big promises about peptides.

Headlines can be deceiving—remember, not all peptides are created equal! Companies are going to create new peptides and report THIS PEPTIDE IS EVEN BETTER THAN THE LAST. Is it really? 🤷🏼‍♀️

Types of Peptides in Skincare

There are several types of peptides, each with different roles in skincare. Here’s a breakdown of the most common ones:

Signal Peptides: These peptides send messages to your skin cells, like “make more collagen.” Example: Matrixyl.

Carrier Peptides: These peptides transport copper. Example: Copper Tripeptide.

Neurotransmitter-Inhibiting Peptides: These peptides relax facial muscles to reduce wrinkles. “Botox in a Bottle.” Example: Argireline.

Enzyme Inhibitor Peptides: These peptides slow down the enzymes that break down collagen. Example: Rice Proteins.

Collagen-Boosting Peptides

Collagen-boosting peptides are key ingredients in many anti-aging products, designed to help stimulate the skin’s natural collagen production. By encouraging the skin to produce more collagen, these peptides can help improve firmness, reduce fine lines, and restore a youthful appearance. However, while they do offer benefits over time, their effects are slower and less dramatic compared to in-office treatments like laser therapy or microneedling, which can more directly target collagen production at a deeper level.

Tripeptide-1

Tripeptide-1

  • The OG peptide. Developed in 1970s

  • A small fragment of collagen. It tricks your skin into thinking collagen has broken down, prompting it to produce more.

  • Can’t easily enter skin

  • Only lasts ~30 minutes before becomes degraded

  • Examples:

Matrixyl 3000

Matrixyl

Matrixyl Synthe'6

Matrixyl Synthe'6

Matrixyl 3000

Matrixyl is named after the "extracellular matrix," like the framework supporting your skin. These peptides help repair and boost this framework. Like all technology, the newer versions of Matrixyl work better (but are also more expensive). Here’s a quick timeline of the different types of Matrixyl:

Matrixyl: Released in early 2000s

Matrixyl 3000: Released ~2004

Matrixyl Synthe'6: Released ~2012

Matrixyl Morphomics: Launched ~2018

Matrixyl 9: Late 2010s

Copper Peptides

Copper peptides have gained attention in skincare for their ability to promote skin repair and boost collagen production. These peptides help improve skin texture, reduce fine lines, and enhance wound healing. However, while they offer benefits for skin health and anti-aging, they are not as powerful or fast-acting as clinical treatments like retinoids or professional procedures. Copper peptides support skin rejuvenation over time, but the results are more gradual and subtle compared to stronger anti-aging options.

X50 Anti-Aging

  • Developed in the early 2010s

  • Focused on precise, high-tech delivery

  • Consists of 2 peptides:

    • Heptapeptide-15 Palmitate: “Key” to target collagen-producing cells (fibroblasts). Releases its “partner” into fibroblast to ensure delivery.

    • Copper Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-14: Stimulates collagen + elastin production.

  • Examples:

Copper Tripeptide-1

Copper Tripeptide-1

“Botox in a Bottle” Peptides

While "Botox in a Bottle" peptides are popular for their wrinkle-reducing claims, it's important to understand that they are nowhere near as effective as actual Botox injections. These peptides can help relax facial muscles to a degree, softening fine lines over time, but they don’t offer the same level of muscle paralysis or long-lasting results that Botox provides. Topical treatments work on the surface and may improve skin appearance, but they can't match the deep, targeted effects of injectable Botox.

Argireline

Argireline

Myocept

X50 Myocept

  • Released in early 2010s

  • Consists of 2 peptides:

    • Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-52: Enters neurons to reduce muscle contractions and, therefore, fine lines and wrinkles.

    • Palmitoyl Heptapeptide-18: “Key” used to enter neurons. Releases its partner directly into neuron. Very efficient delivery system. Known as "“Cosmetic Drone Delivery.”

  • A more sophisticated version of Argireline

  • More expensive

  • Examples

Collagen-Preserving Peptides

Collagen-preserving peptides help keep the skin’s collagen from breaking down. They block enzymes that break down collagen. This helps the skin stay firm and smooth. These peptides can slow down aging and support the skin, but they are better for prevention and maintenance, not for reversing serious damage. For bigger results, stronger treatments may be needed. Here are some popular examples:

Soybean Peptides: These peptides help protect collagen by inhibiting enzymes that break it down. They also boost skin hydration and improve elasticity, making the skin appear firmer and more youthful.

Rice Peptides: Derived from rice protein, these peptides help inhibit collagen-degrading enzymes and provide antioxidant protection, helping to preserve collagen and maintain skin firmness.

Collagen Preserving Peptides

What are Peptides in Skin Care?

Dive into our comprehensive chart showcasing a selection of peptides used in skincare, highlighting their unique properties and contributions to anti-aging treatments. From classic collagen boosters to innovative solutions mimicking 'Botox in a Bottle,' this guide details various peptides including older formulations like Tripeptide-1 and GHK-Cu, well-known compounds such as Matrixyl, and advanced technologies in peptides like Tetrapeptide-21 and X50 Myocept. Each peptide is assessed for its ability to enhance collagen production, preserve existing collagen, or relax facial muscles, providing insights into how these components can optimize skin health and appearance. Whether you are exploring traditional options or the latest in peptide technology, this chart serves as an informative tool to understand the diverse roles peptides play in modern skincare regimes.

How to Use Peptides in Your Skincare Routine

Adding peptides to your skincare routine can be as simple as finding the right product. Here’s how to do it:

  1. Choose a Peptide Product: Look for serums, creams, or moisturizers that contain peptides. Peptides are often found in anti-aging products but can also be used in moisturizers or treatments for specific concerns like acne scars.

  2. Apply to Clean Skin: To maximize the effectiveness of peptides, apply them to clean skin. This ensures that the peptides can penetrate deeply and deliver their benefits without any barriers.

  3. Layer Properly: If you use other active ingredients, like retinol or vitamin C, be mindful of how you layer your products. It’s generally safe to use peptides with these ingredients, but always follow up with a good moisturizer to lock in the benefits.

  4. Be Consistent: Like most skincare ingredients, peptides work best with consistent use. Apply your peptide product daily, and give it time to show results.

  5. Start Slow: If you’re new to peptides, start with a lower concentration to see how your skin reacts. You can gradually increase the strength of the product as your skin gets used to it.

What to Expect

Peptides are effective, but they aren’t a quick fix. You may start to see results in as little as a few weeks, but significant changes like reduced wrinkles and improved skin texture can take a couple of months. Patience is key, and consistency will pay off.

While peptides are generally well-tolerated, they can sometimes cause irritation, especially if used with other strong active ingredients. If you notice redness, dryness, or irritation, reduce usage or consult a dermatologist.

Peptides vs. Other Anti-Aging Ingredients

Peptides are a great addition to any anti-aging routine, but how do they compare to other popular ingredients?

  • Peptides vs. Retinol: Retinol is a powerful anti-aging ingredient that speeds up cell turnover and boosts collagen production. While effective, it can be irritating for some skin types. Peptides, on the other hand, are gentler and focus on signaling the skin to produce collagen rather than increasing cell turnover.

  • Peptides vs. Vitamin C: Vitamin C is an antioxidant that brightens skin and boosts collagen. It’s a great complement to peptides, as they work together to enhance skin firmness and reduce signs of aging.

  • Peptides vs. Hyaluronic Acid: Hyaluronic acid is a humectant that draws moisture into the skin, plumping it up and reducing the appearance of fine lines. While hyaluronic acid focuses on hydration, peptides work on collagen production and skin repair.

Peptide FAQs

  • Which peptide increases the production of hyaluronic acid?: Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-50

  • What are the “Copper Peptide Uglies”? There's a rumor that using too much copper peptide might make your skin look older instead of younger, but there's no scientific study to prove this. There’s a theory that too much copper could cause problems like:

    • Increase free radicals - small molecules that damage skin

    • Produce metalloproteinases - enzymes that break down collagen

    These issues are rare and mostly don't happen to users, but some people have reported these side effects when they use too much, misuse it, or even just normally if they are sensitive. A big study would be good to really understand how often these problems happen.

  • Can I use peptide serum with Vitamin C? Yes, apply the vitamin C serum first, as it is usually lighter and will be absorbed more effectively on clean skin. Then, follow up with the peptide serum. If you find your skin is sensitive or shows signs of irritation when both are used together, you may want to apply them at different times of the day (e.g., vitamin C in the morning and peptides at night).

  • Can I increase both collagen and hyaluronic acid? Yes, use one of the collagen-building peptides above. To increase hyaluronic acid, look for Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-50.

  • What are collagen peptides vs hydrolyzed collagen? In essence, both terms describe the same product—collagen that has been enzymatically processed into smaller peptides to enhance absorption. Whether the product is labeled as "collagen peptides" or "hydrolyzed collagen" often depends on marketing choices rather than significant differences in the product itself. Both are used to support skin elasticity, reduce wrinkles, and help maintain joint and bone health by contributing to the body’s natural collagen synthesis.