Your Essential Guide to Chemical Peels and More
Doctor’s Note
When deciding which peel is best for your particular skin, there's many options and a confusing world of acids, brand names, downtime, etc. We've tried to break down the most popular peels available to help you sift through this information. To find the perfect match for your skin, click to your right, or browse through the key points below!
What is a Chemical Peel?
A chemical peel is a skin treatment where a chemical solution is applied to the skin to remove the top layers. This process helps to improve the appearance of the skin, making it look smoother and younger. Dermatologists use chemical peels to treat a variety of skin conditions and to enhance the skin's overall appearance:
Smoother Skin: Peels can make your skin look and feel smoother by removing dead skin cells.
Even Skin Tone: They can help with uneven skin tone and pigmentation issues.
Reduced Wrinkles and Fine Lines: Chemical peels can reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Improved Acne and Scars: Peels can help treat acne and reduce the appearance of acne scars.
Enhanced Skin Care: After a peel, your skincare products can penetrate deeper and work more effectively.
How Do Chemical Peels Work?
Chemical peels work by applying a solution to the skin that causes it to exfoliate and eventually peel off. The new skin that forms is usually smoother and less wrinkled than the old skin. Here's a simple breakdown of the process:
Preparation
Avoid the sun for a few weeks before your peel. Your provider may ask you to start/stop certain medications before your procedure. On your big day, wear a button-up shirt and a hat. Your skin will be cleaned thoroughly. For protection, your provider may apply Vaseline around your eyes, nose, and/or mouth.
Application
The chemical solution is applied to the skin, which may cause a stinging or tingling sensation for 1 - 2 minutes. The intensity depends on the type of peel you receive. Leave with your hat and go right home!
Recovery
Your skin will be red and sensitive after the treatment. Recovery is 1 - 3 days for superficial peels, and you can usually return to your normal activities right away. Medium peels require more recovery time. Your skin will peel for several days, and you might need to take some time off from work or school. During your recovery, stay out of the sun, moisturize, and avoid picking.
Types of Chemical Peels
There are four main types of chemical peels. (1) Very Superficial Peels are over-the-counter and typically do not produce an actual “peel” of the skin. (2) Superficial Peels are the next mildest type of peel. They are performed in an office and treat fine lines, acne, uneven skin tone, and dryness. (3) Medium Peels penetrate the dermis. This results in a longer recovery (1 - 2 weeks) but treats deeper concerns like wrinkles, acne scars, and uneven skin tone. (4) Deep Peels are the most intense type of peel. They often use phenol and penetrate several layers of skin. Deep peels require sedation and cardiac monitoring. They are not commonly performed.
Chemical Peel Recovery
After a superficial peel, your skin might be red and feel tight for a day or two. You might experience some mild peeling, similar to what you get after a sunburn. This usually goes away in a few days, making the recovery quick and easy. A medium-depth peel causes more intense redness, swelling, and peeling, lasting for about 1 to 2 weeks. The peeling is deeper and can be more noticeable. This peel requires more time and care to heal properly than a superficial peel.
Superficial Peel
Days 1 - 3
+/- Slight peeling x few days
Medium Peel
Over-the-Counter Peels
Very superficial peels affect only the stratum corneum, which is protective "brick layer" of dead skin cells that protect us from the environment. These peels can provide subtle exfoliation and luminosity by getting rid of excessive dead skin that may be dulling your appearance. They can also be great for acne (especially salicylic acid!) Very superficial peels typically do not "peel," meaning your skin will not become very flakey. These are peels that are readily found over the counter and do not require downtime.
Glycolic Acid
Great for: Dark spots, aging skin, keratosis pilaris (KP), and general exfoliation
Over-the-Counter: Less than 20%
Office-Based Peel: 30-70%
Notes: Can be irritating; not recommended for sensitive skin
Lactic Acid
Great for: Hydration, mild exfoliation, sensitive skin, and dry skin
Over-the-Counter: Less than 10%
Office-Based Peel: 20-40%
Notes: Gentle on the skin; suitable for sensitive skin
Mandelic Acid
Great for: Acne, rosacea, oily skin, and hyperpigmentation
Over-the-Counter: Less than 10%
Office-Based Peel: 20-40%
Notes: Less irritating; good for sensitive and darker skin types
Salicylic Acid
Great for: Acne, oily skin, and blackheads
Over-the-Counter: Less than 2%
Office-Based Peel: 20-30%
Notes: Penetrates deep into pores; not recommended for very dry or sensitive skin
Office-Based Peels
Office-based chemical peels are a popular and effective way to rejuvenate the skin and address various skin concerns. Performed by dermatologists or licensed skincare professionals, these treatments involve applying a chemical solution to the skin to exfoliate and remove dead skin cells. Depending on the depth of the peel, they can target issues such as acne, fine lines, hyperpigmentation, and uneven texture. Unlike over-the-counter products, office-based chemical peels use higher concentrations of active ingredients, providing more dramatic and long-lasting results. With expert supervision, these treatments are tailored to meet individual skin needs, ensuring both safety and effectiveness.
Superficial peels work on the top layer of the skin, called the epidermis. Because they only affect the epidermis, these peels can help with problems like uneven skin color, rough texture, sun damage, and acne. They are safe for all skin types and usually have a short recovery time, typically just a few days.
Medium-depth peels go deeper into the skin, reaching the upper dermis. They are great for treating fine lines, sun damage, dark spots, scars, and pre-cancerous growths. After getting a medium-depth peel, you can expect some swelling, redness, and peeling. It takes about 1 to 2 weeks for the skin to fully peel and heal. You can get a medium-depth peel every 2-3 months. If you have darker skin, you might need to prepare your skin before getting this type of peel.
Glycolic Acid
Glycolic acid is the most popular peel because it treats a variety of conditions. Office peel levels range from 30% - 50%. It stimulates collagen and lightens dark spots, so this is the workhorse of the dermatology world!
Best For: A lil bit of everything: Dark Spots, Fine Lines, Keratosis Pilaris, Acne Scars
Lactic Acid
Lactic acid is a gentle, non-irritating peel with practically no side effects. It's gentle enough for sensitive skin. Lactic acid has two great qualities: brightening + hydration.
Best For: Dark spots + Dry skin
Salicylic Acid
Salicylic acid is the mainstay of acne treatment. It dives deep into the pore, clearing them out and slowing oil production. It is both antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory, so it works against acne from multiple angles!
Best For: Acne, Large Pores, Oily Skin, Texture
Mandelic Acid
Mandelic acid is the largest molecule of the peels, resulting in a non-irritating peel with little to no side effects. It's great for sensitive skin and has two great qualities: brightening and antibacterial properties.
Best For: Dark Spots, Acne, Rosacea, Large Pores, Oily Skin, Texture
Jessner
A Jessner's peel is perfect or oily, acne-prone skin. It is comprised of both lactic and salicylic acids + resorcinol (a lightening agent) to treat both acne and the dark spots that ensue.
Best For: Dark Spots, Acne, Large Pores, Texture
Composition: 14% lactic acid + 14% salicylic acid + 14% resorcinol (lightener)
TCA
The TCA peel is a favorite for anti-aging due to its collagen stimulation. TCA is also great at suppressing pigment, meaning it is a wonderful option for lightening dark spots. A great anti-aging peel in general!
Best For: Dark Spots, Fine lines, Scars, Aging
Which Chemical Peels Are Safe for Skin of Color?
Which chemical peels are safe for darker skin types? It’s all about the skin’s anatomy! Melanocytes, the cells that produce melanin (which gives skin its color), are located at the very bottom layer of the epidermis. These cells are extremely sensitive. Exposing them to acid or inflammation from a peel can cause uneven skin color.
Very superficial and superficial peels are usually safe for darker skin. Medium-depth peels can be safe, too, but might need some preparation. How do we prep the skin? By using hydroquinone! Hydroquinone is a cream that reduces melanin production. When used for 2 to 6 weeks before a peel, it “pauses” the melanocyte and lowers the risk of getting dark spots afterward.
And remember, it's essential for all skin types to wear sunscreen and protect their skin both before and after a chemical peel!
Medium-depth peels affect the melanocytes and may result color damage if performed on skin of color.
To prevent color damage, pre-treat skin of color with hydroquinone to “pause” melanocytes so they are not as affected during the procedure!
Combo Peels
I have been dreading writing this section. So far, we've only covered the most common, time-tested, and well-studied peels. Now, onto the newer peels from different brands. These peels combine acids in various percentages and add on different active ingredients to reduce inflammation, lighten, etc. I have a conspiracy theory that companies purposefully make these peels confusing so you can't compare them. Some companies also don't advertise the percentages of each acid. I've tried my best to cull this information online, though some of it may be inaccurate!
Illuminize
Lightest Peel by Skinmedica
6% Salicylic acid
6% Mandelic acid
6% Phytic acid
6% Malic acid
Also Contains: Resorcinol (lightens), Panthenol (reduces inflammation), Bark Extract (hydrates)
Treats: Uneven pigment, Dark spots, Sun damage, Texture, Large pores, Fine Lines, Wrinkles
Recovery: None to minimal
Sessions: 1 peel before event or every ~2 weeks as needed
Noted: The Illuminize Peel is the most superficial peel in the SkinMedica peel range. It is known for its ability to increase skin glow and radiance while causing minimal discomfort, downtime, and peeling. This makes it an ideal choice for first-time patients or if you want a "glow" for a big event (wedding, prom, etc). It is safe for all skin types.
Vitalize
“Middle” Peel by Skinmedica
10 % Salicylic acid
10% Lactic acid
Also Contains: Resorcinol (lightens), Panthenol (reduces inflammation), Retinol (applied after peel)
Treats: Uneven pigment, Dark spots, Sun damage, Texture, Large pores, Fine Lines, Wrinkles, Acne, Scarring
Recovery: Light peeling on Day 2 - 3
Sessions: 3 - 6 peels every 3 - 4 weeks
Noted: The Vitalize Peel is the "middle" peel between the Illuminize Peel (more superficial) and the Rejuvenize Peel (deeper). The Vitalize Peel has no/minimal discomfort due to it's pH being a bit higher than other peels. It is safe for all skin types.
Rejuvenize
Deepest Peel by Skinmedica
15 % Salicylic acid
15% Lactic acid
Also Contains: Resorcinol (lightens), Panthenol (reduces inflammation), Retinol (applied after peel)
Treats: Uneven pigment, Dark spots, Sun damage, Texture, Large pores, Fine Lines, Wrinkles, Acne, Scarring, Melasma
Recovery: Peeling on Days 2 - 5
Sessions: 3 - 6 peels every 4 - 6 weeks
Noted: The Rejuvenize Peel is characterized by moderate peeling that lasts for ~2 - 5 days. It is well tolerated with minimal downtime. Additionally, the Rejuvenize Peel is designed to reduce skin irritation often associated with stronger chemical peels, all while maintaining its peeling effect. It is safe for all skin types.
12% TCA
12% Salicylic acid
Also Contains: Tretinoin 0.1%, Phenol 12% (increases depth), Vitamin C, Mineral blend
Treats: Early signs of aging, Rough texture.
Recovery: 5 - 7 days
Treatments Needed: 2 - 4 per year
Noted: The VI Original Peel is great as a first-time peel, especially as it is painless! The peel can also be used on the eye area, hands, arms, chest, and back. It is safe for all skin types.
VI Original
Most superficial peel by VI
VI Precision
Similar to VI, but 25% Stronger
12% TCA
12% Salicylic acid
Also Contains: Tretinoic Acid 0.1%, Phenol 30% (increases depth), Vitamin C, Mineral blend
Treats: Sun damage, Melasma, Hyperpigmentation, Actinic keratoses ("pre-cancers"), Age spots.
Recovery: 7 - 10 days
Treatments Needed: 2 - 4 per year
Noted: This is VI's most popular peel. This peel suppresses melanin production, resulting in a more even and brighter skin tone. It can also be used on the hands, arms, or chest. It is safe for all skin types.
3-Step Peel
By ZO
10% TCA
17% Salicylic acid
Also Contains: Ubiquinone (antioxidant), Beta-glycan (to help healing), 6% retinol (applied after peel).
Treats: Sun damage, Brown spots, Uneven tone, Texture, Melasma, Large pores, Acne
Recovery: 3 - 5 days
Treatments: ~1 for most conditions
Noted: ZO's 3-Step Peel also involves applying retinol and using a Calming Creme to encourage even more collagen and hyaluronic acid production. It is safe for all skin types.
Chemical Peel FAQs
Do Chemical Peels Help with Pores?
Yes, chemical peels can help reduce the appearance of enlarged pores. Superficial to medium-depth peels (such as glycolic acid, salicylic acid, or lactic acid) are typically effective in minimizing pore appearance.
How Long After a Chemical Peel Can I Workout?
It's generally recommended to wait at least 48 hours before resuming intense workouts. Working out too soon can lead to increased irritation, prolonged redness, and potential infection due to sweat and bacteria. Light, non-sweaty activities such as gentle walking or stretching may be acceptable. However, it’s best to avoid any strenuous or high-intensity exercise until your skin has fully healed.
How Often to Get Chemical Peels?
The frequency of chemical peels depends on the type of peel and your skin needs. Superficial peels can be done every 4-6 weeks, medium-depth peels every 3-6 months, and deep peels once a year or less. Factors such as skin type, specific concerns (like acne or hyperpigmentation), and your skin's response to treatment also play a role. It's best to consult with a dermatologist to create a personalized plan.
How Much Is a Chemical Peel?
The cost of a chemical peel can vary depending on the type and location, but generally, it ranges from $150 to $600 per session. Deeper peels tend to be more expensive.
Does a Peel Help with Breakouts?
Yes, chemical peels can help with breakouts by removing dead skin cells, unclogging pores, and reducing inflammation. They can be especially helpful for acne-prone skin.
How Much Is a Chemical Face Peel?
A chemical face peel typically costs between $150 and $600, depending on the depth of the peel and the provider’s location.
How Long Does a Chemical Peel Take?
A chemical peel procedure usually takes about 30 to 60 minutes, depending on the type of peel. Recovery time can vary from a few days to a couple of weeks.
Do Chemical Peels Hurt?
Some chemical peels can cause a mild stinging or burning sensation during the procedure, but this usually subsides quickly. Deeper peels might be more uncomfortable, and your provider may use a numbing agent to help manage any pain.
How Long Does a Chemical Peel Last?
The effects of a chemical peel can last several months, but it depends on your skin type, the type of peel, and how well you take care of your skin afterward. Sun protection and a good skincare routine are key to maintaining results.
What Is a Phenol Peel?
A phenol peel is a deep chemical peel that uses phenol acid to penetrate multiple layers of skin. It’s effective for treating deep wrinkles and severe sun damage but requires a longer recovery time and can have more risks.
What Is a TCA Peel?
A TCA peel (trichloroacetic acid) is a type of medium-depth chemical peel that helps with fine lines, wrinkles, and discoloration. It’s stronger than light peels and may require some downtime for healing.
Do Chemical Peels Help with Acne?
Yes, chemical peels can help with acne by exfoliating the skin, reducing oil production, and preventing clogged pores. They can also improve the appearance of acne scars over time.
How Long Does It Take for a Chemical Peel to Heal?
Healing time after a chemical peel can range from a few days for light peels to a couple of weeks for deeper peels. It’s important to follow post-care instructions to ensure proper healing and avoid complications.
How Often Should You Get a Chemical Peel?
The frequency of chemical peels depends on the type of peel and your skin type. Light peels can be done every 4 to 6 weeks, while deeper peels should be spaced out more, often every 6 to 12 months.
Are Phenol Peels Dangerous?
Phenol peels can be more risky than other types of chemical peels because they penetrate deeper into the skin. They can cause side effects like scarring, changes in skin color, and prolonged recovery time. It’s important to have a phenol peel performed by an experienced professional.